Diversity and Inclusion in Fashion: Representation and Cultural Appropriation

Representation of all cultures in an appropriate manner needs to be a path-breaking step in the fashion industry.

We are fortunate that we reside in a colourful and diverse world. The reflection of our world is most appropriately upheld by the fashion industry, which also helps in reflecting and embracing this diversity. Fashion, to most people, has always been a powerful platform that reflects their self-expression, identity, and culture. It has also helped in building bridges that connect different people and societies.

Though the fashion industry has a global influence, it is often subject to one criticism. It has been accused of a lack of diversity and inclusion in its representation, with incidents of cultural appropriation often getting highlighted. These issues highlight the need for a careful balance between embracing global cultural influences and ensuring respectful representation.

Moris Media, a leading digital marketing agency in India, explores the current state of diversity and inclusion within the fashion industry, the importance of genuine representation, and the critical distinction between cultural appreciation and appropriation. Join us as we delve deeper into these topics, examining the challenges, triumphs, and the path forward for a more inclusive and culturally sensitive fashion industry.

The Fashion Industry: A History of Diversity and Inclusion

When we discuss about the global fashion industry, the common terms that come to our mind include creativity and inspiration. Unfortunately, it is yet to capture the aspect of global diversity in the manner desired.

Traditionally, the fashion world was seen as an exclusive realm, primarily dominated by Western ideals of beauty and style. For a long time, runways and fashion magazines were filled with thin, white models, while designers and creative directors were predominantly male and of Western descent. This lack of diversity and representation was reflective of societal norms and biases that pervaded the world at large.

We saw this trend start shifting a gradual bit around the late 20th century. Gradually, designers and models from diverse backgrounds started making their mark. People like Naomi Campbell, the first black model to grace the cover of French Vogue; Edward Enninful, the first black editor of British Vogue; and designers like Ann Lowe and Virgil Abloh broke barriers and began to redefine the industry's norms.

Fast forward to the 21st century, we see a more concerted effort towards inclusion. Diversity is no longer an afterthought, but a central conversation. Campaigns like Gucci's "Unskilled Worker" and Christian Siriano's inclusive runway shows demonstrate a growing commitment to diverse representation.

Unfortunately, this progress has been slow and still lacks consistency. Despite the strides made, representation in fashion is often criticized as tokenistic or performative. Plus-sized, older, and non-binary individuals, among others, are still underrepresented. Similarly, while the industry has seen an increase in BIPOC (Black, Indigenous, and People of Color) models and designers, they remain underrepresented at executive levels.

Moreover, while global influences have made fashion richer and more vibrant, the industry has faced backlash for cultural appropriation, often commodifying elements of a culture without understanding or respect.

The fashion industry is making some efforts to promote diversity and inclusion. But, it is just a start and reaching optimum levels of diversity is still a far cry. The conversation about diversity and representation in fashion is ongoing and ever-evolving, challenging the industry to continually reassess its practices and push boundaries to truly reflect the diversity of the world it inhabits.

The Power of Representation in Fashion

Fashion is not just restricted to being clothing and accessories. It has evolved as a powerful form of self-expression that helps individuals narrate their personal identities, and affiliations. In that sense, representation in fashion extends beyond mere imagery—it shapes societal perceptions, norms, and attitudes.

When consumers see themselves represented in fashion—from the runway models to the creatives behind the scenes—it reinforces their sense of belonging and validates their identities. It's a message of acceptance, signalling that beauty and style are not confined to a singular, homogeneous ideal.

For example, brands like Fenty by Rihanna and Savage X have been lauded for their inclusive approach to representation. They have disrupted the industry with their inclusive range of make-up shades and lingerie sizes, celebrating the diversity of their consumers. Similarly, Tommy Hilfiger's adaptive clothing line showcases the brand's commitment to inclusivity, acknowledging the need for fashion that caters to differently-abled individuals.

However, the power of representation also comes with the responsibility of authenticity. There is a fine line between representation and tokenism. Brands must be wary of "box-ticking" or exploiting diversity for commercial gain. Genuine representation involves inclusivity at all levels—from design and production to marketing and corporate leadership. It means creating spaces where diverse voices are heard, valued, and have the power to influence.

Despite positive strides, there remain gaps. Representation in fashion often falls short for certain groups, such as older generations, the plus-sized community, and non-binary individuals. Fashion's narrow beauty standards still persist, casting a shadow over its steps towards inclusivity.

Furthermore, representation is not only about visual diversity. It's also about telling diverse stories, understanding, and respecting the cultural nuances that come with them. This is where the industry often blurs the lines between cultural appreciation and appropriation—a critical issue that needs addressing.

The power of representation in fashion essentially lies in its potential to foster a sense of belonging, to challenge societal norms, and to drive change. But for it to be genuinely powerful, it must be holistic, authentic, and respectful, moving beyond surface-level diversity to integrate inclusivity into the fabric of the industry.

Cultural Appreciation vs. Cultural Appropriation in Fashion

The fashion industry, being a global platform, frequently borrows inspiration from various cultures, contributing to its dynamism and creativity. However, we need to identify the criticality of distinguishing between cultural appreciation and cultural appropriation. The line separating these two vital aspects often gets blurred.

Cultural appreciation involves learning about, understanding, and respecting another culture, incorporating elements from it in a thoughtful and honouring manner. It signifies the sharing and mutual exchange of cultures, helping to break down barriers and encourage unity. However, this becomes problematic when it morphs into cultural appropriation.

Cultural appropriation occurs when a dominant culture borrows elements of another culture and uses it outside their original cultural context. This often happens without making efforts to understand or respect for the significance of that culture. It can result in the trivialization or commodification of cultural practices and symbols, thereby potentially causing offense or harm.

A classic example of cultural appropriation in fashion is the mis-usage of the Native American headdress. These headdresses have profound cultural significance and are reserved for respected figures within the community. When used as festival fashion or part of a runway look without context or consent, it disrespects and diminishes their cultural value.

Similarly, the frequent usage of traditional African prints, Japanese kimonos, or Indian bindis by Western designers, without acknowledgment or understanding, has faced backlash for being disrespectful and exploitative.

Cultural appropriation often leads to harm to cultures, with significant social and economic consequences. It can lead to the erasure and commodification of the culture being appropriated, while the originators often remain marginalized and undercompensated. Additionally, it can spark consumer backlash and damage brand reputation.

To navigate this thin line between appreciation and appropriation, brands must commit to cultural literacy, sensitivity, and collaboration. This could involve working directly with artisans from the culture being represented, ensuring appropriate context, acknowledgment, and giving back to the community.

Fashion has the power to promote cultural appreciation, leading to a more understanding and interconnected world. However, to fulfil this potential, the industry must approach cultural influences with respect and sensitivity, ensuring that it is appreciation, not appropriation.

Bridging the Gap: Towards Respectful Cultural Influence in Fashion

Fashion, when working at its best, can facilitate a cross-cultural conversation. It can become a medium for diverse cultures and histories to interact, influence, and get informed about each other. But the critical question is: how can the industry ensure this conversation is respectful, authentic, and mutually beneficial? How can it bridge the gap between cultural influence and cultural appropriation?

Firstly, research and understanding are crucial. Designers need to be educated about the cultures they draw inspiration from. They must respect cultural nuances, significance, and histories associated with the elements they choose to incorporate. This understanding allows designers to contextualize these elements appropriately and to present them in a way that honours their origins rather than exoticizing or trivializing them.

Secondly, collaboration is key. By working directly with artisans or designers from the cultures they seek to represent, brands can ensure authenticity and contribute economically to these communities. For instance, brand collaborations with Indigenous artists or groups can foster a genuine exchange of ideas, ensuring that designs are culturally sensitive and that profits are shared.

Transparency and attribution also play an important role. If a piece is inspired by a specific culture, brands should acknowledge this influence openly. This fosters an environment where consumers are educated about the cultural significance behind the pieces they wear.

Ultimately, fashion should aim to be culturally expansive, not extractive. It should inspire appreciation and respect for different cultures, not commodify them. Brands need to constantly evaluate their practices, listen to feedback, particularly from the cultures they draw inspiration from, and be willing to make changes when they get it wrong.

Achieving this balance between cultural influence and respect is an ongoing process. It requires constant learning, listening, and evolving. The fashion industry, given its global reach, has the potential to lead this change, fostering a deeper understanding and respect for the world's diverse cultures.